Next up in my series of ‘places to visit when lockdown is over’ is South Wales. Scotland, Ireland and England all have well-trodden golf trip routes, written about numerous times - Wales, however, is less well documented. While it may not have the depth of other countries in the British Isles, there is some great golf to be found and you don’t have to look too hard to find it.
Picture - Royal Porthcawl Golf Club
IN A NUTSHELL
The best courses in the area are all on the coast,, so expect dramatic views over the Bristol Channel with lovely links (and clifftop) golf. For nightlife, you can either choose to go classy in rural towns, or more full-on in downtown Swansea.
COURSES TO PLAY
Royal Porthcawl
The stand-out course of this trip will be Royal Porthcawl. From time-to-time the question comes up of whether Royal Porthcawl could hold the Open, and the answer is almost always the same - the course would be a great addition to the rota, but infrastructure would be an issue.
The course is well routed to take into account the frequent high winds in coming from the west. This is links golf, but Porthcawl definitely has its own look and feel. There isn’t much in the way of big dunes, and the course has several inland holes where there is plenty of gorse to deal with. I’ve not played it for a few years but recent reports on the work done on the bunkering and general course conditioning have been extremely positive. The clubhouse is an absolute delight, and the views from pretty much everywhere are tremendous. This is a must-play on any trip to the area.
Royal Porthcawl Website, Mark Crossfield Video
Southerndown
Just the other side of the Ogmore Valley you will find Southerndown. This is an unusual course in several ways, but all the more interesting to visit as a result. It is ‘downland’ rather than links golf - Tom Doak calls it the best Downland course in the UK. Basically that means that you should expect plenty of hills and, while the ball runs well on the ground, it doesn’t share the turf characteristics of a links.The first hole will give you a good taste of this, with a big climb up a hill to kick things off.
The next thing people will probably mention is the sheep. You will see plenty of them around, nibbling at the rough and generally trying to avoid getting hit by errant shots. However, the golf is of a high quality. The long par 3 7th is probably the standout hole on the course with its well protected, upturned saucer green. The 18th is a lovely finish - a double fairway to choose from off the tee, with your approach scrutinised by the members enjoying their post-match pint.
Golf Empire Review, Hidden Links Website
Pennard
For many, Pennard may be the best course they’ve never heard of. West of Swasea, on the Gower peninsula, Pennard is simply a joy to play. It’s links golf of the highest order - quite literally as you are 200 feet above the coast in a very unusual setting. The ground is more links than at Southerndown but do expect to do a lot of walking up hill and down dale - this is another downland course. The ‘quirkyness’ score is pretty high here. You will have cows and sheep on the course to contend with (there are electric fences around the greens and tees), plenty of blind shots and it is one of the most undulating courses you will have played.
The routing is fantastic. This, from Planet Golf gives you an idea of what to expect:
‘Pennard's most remarkable hole is the outrageous 7th, which heads toward the sea between the castle and the ruins of an ancient church, its small green then cruelly sitting on a ledge and sloping away from play’.
They don’t make them like that these days!
It’s quite a raw course from a condition point of view, so you should probably not worry too much about your scorecard on the first time out - just marvel at the majesty of this James Braid design. If you like your courses with character and fun, you will adore Pennard.
Pennard Website, Planet Golf Review
Pyle & Kenfig
Pyle & Kenfig (or P&K as it’s known), close to Porthcawl, is another strong addition to a South Wales golf trip. The front 9 was designed by Harry Colt and opened in the 1920s while the back 9 was designed by Philip Mackenzie Ross and opened after the Second World War. There is quite a difference between the two. Colt’s course is on flatter heathland (expect gorse but no trees) and then you enter the dunes for the back 9 - the 11th to 17th. It is a slightly odd combination and the back 9 gets all the plaudits, but don’t discount the front 9 totally. It may not hit the heights of the holes in the dunes but there are some strong holes there.
Top100golfcourses.com, Don Hendriksen Youtube
Ashburnham
You’ll get a warm welcome at Ashburnham, about 40 minutes west of Swansea. Back in the 1960s Ashburnham hosted some PGA events, though at 6,300 yards from the back tees that is beyond it now. The 1st, 2nd, 17th and 18th are played on converted arable land but the rest are pure links - a traditional ‘out-and-back’ amidst the gentle dunes. There is plenty of quirk, if that’s your thing, and the 18th will divide opinion as you try to get up the steep hill to the final green. Ashburnham may be a little behind some of the courses on this list for pure quality, but it’s worth a diversion.
Ashburnham Website, Today’s Golfer
Machynys
Just south of Llanelli you will find Machynys. Whereas the other courses on this list have old-world charm in spades, Machynys is a high-end, 2005 Jack Nicklaus course with a brasserie, spa and conferences facilities. A lot of money has been spent and the finish is of a very high standard. The course has been generally well received - expect pretty accessible fairways, fantastic quality greens and a links-like feel, but plenty of water to take into account too. Choosing the right tees, like on all modern courses, will be key to your enjoyment of the course.
Machynys Website, Youtube flyover
A couple more options…
I’m going to cover the mid and north Wales areas on other trips, but, if you have a bit more time in the area, then a trip to Tenby (an hour and a quarter west of Swansea) is well worth thinking about. It’s a beautiful part of the world and the course is nestled next to the town.
The other option to consider, if you are travelling from the east, is Celtic Manor. There are three courses there but the most famous is the 2012 Ryder Cup course. I’ve driven past it many times but never stopped in. It’s a very different style of golf from the others on this list but may be of interest for those who want to see where Monty won the BBC Sports Personality Coach of the Year.
WHERE TO STAY
If you are looking for the busiest nightlife then Swansea is the obvious place to stay. It’s fairly central for the courses you are likely to be playing, with Pyle & Kenfig, Porthcawl and Southerdown just over half an hour to the East, and Ashburnham and Machynys about the same to the west. Pennard is just 15 minutes away. You will find the usual Premier Inn-type options in Swansea but if you are looking for a more upmarket boutique hotel then Morgans is a good choice.
Just along the coast from Swansea is Mumbles. This used to be an area famed for the ‘Mumbles Mile’ - a heady stretch of pubs - but those have mainly gone now. It is still a nice place to go (some would say nicer!) and Patrick’s with Rooms is the pick of the crop here.
Another option would be to stay nearer to Porthcawl and Southerndown. I spent many happy days as a child on the beach and at the fair at Porthcawl, but the more discerning traveller may want to head a little inland. The gentrified country town of Cowbridge has plenty to offer, although it is less central than Swansea. The Bear Hotel is a very pleasant old coaching inn, dating back to the 12th Century. There are plenty of places for a good meal - try Oscars or The Carne Arms. However, if you are in Southerdown playing I would recommend stopping at Frolics in the village. Portugese food, of all things, but highly recommended.
Lastly, Porthcawl and P & K both have dormy houses which are great value and allow you to roll straight out onto the course. P & K usually has some good stay and play offers on their website.
CLIMATE
Like anywhere in the UK, the weather in South Wales can be a little hit and miss. It would be fair to say that it is one of the wetter parts of the country but, equally, you can have long stretches of warm weather. The spring is generally drier than the autumn if you are looking for an off-season visit.
Weather statistics for Mumbles. Source - Met Office
HOW TO GET THERE
It’s probably not as far as you think to get to South Wales. The fast train from London to Cardiff is under 2 hours and you can get to Swansea in less than 3 hours. If you’re in Scotland or Ireland there are flights directly to Cardiff airport and from there it’s just over half an hour to Porthcawl. You’ll probably want to pick up a hire car when you are here, but that’s easily arranged.
So there you have it. South Wales is rarely discussed as a venue for a golf trip but it has a huge amount to offer
NEXT TIME - I’ll be covering the Kent Coast.
PREVIOUS TRIPS -
East Lothian
North Norfolk